I am going on record as being thoroughly sick and tired of the cold weather and the snow and the ice and the chills and my guessing which pile of snow is really my car. It’s one damn thing after another to quote my father. I have formally asked ‘ol man winter to cease and desist. I’m sure I will have about as much luck as I did writing memos to a higher authority, written in long-hand, requesting warmer weather arrive soonest. In the meantime, send limes and plenty of rum. Today, I am trying yet another approach. The particular dish that I have chosen, a navarin is a lamb dish that celebrates the spring harvest. It brings together young, tender lambs together with the first of the new season’s baby vegetables. The operative word here is “spring.”
I am sure that some of you are on the edge of your seats wondering what this French Yankee is up now. And perhaps more importantly why call the damn thing a Navarin d’Agneau when Lamb stew would suffice in DesMoines. Those of you who are culinary sleuths are probably up on the history of this dish but for the others, let me give you something to chew on. The genesis of this dish is interesting, even if not entirely true, as it is believed to be named for a recipe originally produced by the head chef of the French Navy to celebrate the French fleet’s participation in the 1827 battle for Greek independence near Navarino, Pylos. The chef was probably under some stress realizing that the victory celebration hinged on him making a winning dish. That or his head. A little strained perhaps? Perhaps a juicier story one that entailed treachery and deceit only to end up as lambs to the slaughter. Spring vegetables not included.
A less exciting explanation and therefore probably one that’s a little closer to the truth is that turnips (or navets) are a harbinger of spring in France and almost always are presented along with the Navarin. The French appreciate navets during this season for their delicious sweet flavor. Supposedly they are one of the oldest cultivated foods and are believed to have originated with the ancient Greeks who would throw them at contestants during great events. Turnip fossils dating back thousands of years have been found in caves in western China. There’s even evidence of prehistoric man-eating raw turnips and then later roasting them. Ancient caves in France are decorated with paintings showing bottles of wine alongside turnips being boiled in clay pots. So if you follow that story, you can make that leap of faith from navet (turnip) to navarin to lamb stew. A turnip or a French victory at sea? You be the judge.
A certain Vincent Maurisseau of La Ferme de Filbois in Aufferville tells us that the leg of lamb from Île-de-France comes from a cross between a Rambouillet sheep and an English Dishley breed. It means a line of finicky sheep with lousy French but it also means sheep that are raised quickly, with limited adult supervision, which in turn results in very tender and delicately flavoured meat.Some 15,000 of these lambs are farmed in Île-de-France by around 100 breeders.
Lamb stew from Île-de-France or Navarin d’Agneau d’Ile-de-France
You will find that for this dish, the sauce is lighter and less complex than those in the more robust winter casseroles. This broth like sauce is well suited to the subtle flavors of the baby carrots, baby turnips, peas and asparagus tips. Fava beans or haricots verts are optional additions. The most typical accompaniment is boiled new potatoes, tossed in butter and parsley. Some things are NOT optional like wine with this dish so do yourself a favor so I don’t have to come after you.
INGREDIENTS
Preparation: 25 min , Cooking time 1hr45. Serves 4
2 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. cooking oil
2 lbs. lean lamb shoulder (cut in 2-3 inch pieces, dusted with flour)
1 tbsp. sugar
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp. flour
1 cup dry white wine
4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 tbsp. tomato paste
2 cups chicken broth (homemade, canned or made from cubes)
salt and pepper, to taste
bouquet garni (2 sprigs tyme, 3 sprigs parsley, and 1 bay leaf—tied together)
8 small new potatoes, peeled
8 baby carrots, peeled
8 small turnips, peeled and halved
16 baby boiling onions (peeled) OR 8 large scallions cut in 3 inch pieces
2 cups frozen peas
DIRECTIONS
Pre-heat the oven to 350 F. Heat oil and butter in a skillet over medium-high heat and brown the lamb. Sprinkle with the sugar on both sides and let brown for 2 minutes longer (that will give a nice caramelized touch).
Transfer the lamb to a large oven-proof casserole dish. Reduce the heat to low and add the chopped onion and garlic and cook gently for about 8 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook until lightly colored (stir constantly). Add the wine and tomatoes. Cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly).
Add the chicken broth and stir in the tomato purée. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and then pour over the meat in the casserole. Add the bouquet garni.
Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and add the all the vegetables except the peas. Cover and return to oven and bake for 30 minutes. Add the peas and cook for an additional 15 minutes.
Discard the bouquet garni and serve straight from the casserole with a loaf of crusty French bread. (NOTE: This dish can be made up to 2 days in advance and just reheated. Freezes well.)
ABOUT THOSE WINES
I doubt that could really go wrong paring a wine with this dish. Drink something you enjoy – it’s novel concept.
Beaujolais, Beaujolais region, France
Beaune, Burgundy, France
Bourgueil, Vale de Loire, France
Chateauneuf du Pape, Vallee du Rhone, France
Minervois, Languedoc Roussillon, France
Culinary Travels in France 