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What we have here is an opportunity to be really confused. For some, yours truly included, it is not always an unnatural state. Here is the predicament one might find themselves facing when it’s time to place bottle after bottle of wine on the table in anticipation of the guests’ arrival. Which wine? Red, white or rosé? Or maybe just coffee, after all perhaps for you its simpler with a steak? Turning to the vineyard Gods for an answer may be too little too late. Let’s dissect our little grape problem. If, for example, we are to understand Sauce Bordelaise versus sauce Bercy as red wine versus white wine then should we not be drinking white wine with this dish (careful, trick question.) While you ponder that thought over a forkful of frites, let me remind you that Bercy has yes white wine, but also shallots and some chopped up marrow and possibly if you are garnishing it further, some earthy mushrooms that have simmered for a little bit in lard (that would be bacon, folks). All of that, I would humbly submit, suggests in the strongest of terms (diplomatic yawn) that we go with red. After all better red than dead.
Les Vins de Sélection
I have suggested (a word often used by consultants allowing them to charge their client more for less) several very nice wines with my thinking that on this dish perhaps it’s best to stay away from the whites (I don’t mean that personally) and the heavier reds and navigate the channel with lighter reds (don’t forget, red-right-return.) Please do let me know what you think of my proposed solution. OK, here’s the lineup: Batting first, a great red just up from the minors, still a little young but lets see…
Bordeaux, Saint Georges – Saint Emilion (this Bordeaux’s should work well with the shallots in the sauce.) Perhaps more importantly a SE is just an outstanding red wine whatever the year or the price. To quote something familiar: Just do it.
Vallée du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages (if you are adding the marrow to the dish, this should pair nicely with that flavor. It should be a nice light CDR which will work well.) This is yet another perennial favorite of mine. I can’t help it I have certain tastes, certain needs that must be addressed. I am only human after all.
Bourgogne, Côtes de Nuits Louis Boillot Gevrey – Chambertin. If you can spare a few Euros, Pounds, Dollars or a pound of black truffles, the 2003 is thought to be quite a winner with dark aromas of blackberry and currant and flavors of black raspberry, blackberry and minerals. But, as the French love to say, vous m’en direz des nouvelles.
Bourgogne, Domaine Lucien Jacob Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2004 I think this Pinot Noir is a nice affordable and highly drinkable wine (my own x and y axis that, when plotted, this wine will be in the upper right quadrant of affordability and drinkability.) This wine brings ripe red cherry fruit flavors mixed with smoke, earth and a touch of forest floor. The palate is light to medium bodied but develops nicely in intensity and build up in structure.
Monterey, California, 2008 Fog Head Pinot Noir rising from the Pacific this is an affordable, little medium bodied wine layered with flavors of red berries, vanilla, and gentle spice. A welcomed addition to any dinner table. Even mine.