I was in search of a good story or better yet a story that would taste good, even if that meant having to go beyond the borders of La Belle France. By the end of my journey, I had indeed found what I was looking for and nicely tucked away from the hoards of curious tourists looking for a bargain and a photo opportunity. In other words, I found a little piece of Heaven in Andalusia!
As the plane broke through the clouds and the pilot began a slow turn inland towards Malaga airport, I looked out my window and saw below the majestic Mediterranean sea, a sparkling brilliant blue body of water. It was a breathtaking view and one that held me very much spellbound. On arrival, I don’t remember if I ever showed my passport, granted I had arrived at a time that fell within the extended lunch time. I retrieved my bags, walked passed a sleepy looking customs official busily picking his teeth and made my way to the car rental agency where, sure enough, my motorized baby carriage awaited me.
I gave up on the idea of cruising down the Autopista del Mediterraneo in favor of a more local, scenic route that hugged the water’s edge taking me through one little British enclave after another, Marbella, Estepona, and Sabinillas. At times, I had to wonder if I was in little Britain or southern Spain. Endless traffic circles later, I decided on a quick stop in Soto Grande if nothing more than to wax nostalgic about my time spent there with my brother and his family over a long Thanksgiving holiday some years ago. From my vantage point at the marina restaurant, the view of the Rock of Gibraltar or “Gib”peering through the mist was as captivating as I remembered. I finished my olives, neatly polished off my second beer and headed on towards my final destination: Cadiz.
Cadiz is the second oldest continuously inhabited city in the Iberian Peninsula and one of the oldest in all southwestern Europe. The older part of Cadiz, within the remnants of the city walls is known as the Old Town or Casco Antiquo in Spanish. The Old Town is characterized by several barrios including El Populo and Santa Maria. On the advice of counsel, I had diner at the Casa Bigote, on the Calle Portico Bayo de Guia. Readers will remember that I do not rush to the most coveted of restaurants for a wonderful meal. I prefer to look for genuine feast in a more non-traditional setting. Keep the fancy decor and and the even fancier menu, non merci, I want the local color and food that reflects the culinary traditions of the Andalusian people and the richness of the land and sea. With a pleasant seaside view, I suffered through a beautiful sunset amazed at the richness of the colors, a mix of Mediterranean blue and green with hues of orange, and deep yellows. Magnificent indeed and a drinkable moment if ever there was one! That’s where my trusted friend, the split of Cava, came in to the picture. My real problem was deciding on the dish. A selection that included ortiguillas de mar and what looked like an excellent gambas and langostinos judging from a nearby table. I stayed the course and decided on clams in Spanish sherry sauce or Almejas à la Gaditana. It looked delicious and arrived on a large platter with plenty of bread and a side dish of Moroccan couscous beautifully seasoned. I was thirsty and ordered a bottle of 2007 Tempranillo. Two brandies de Jerez later, I called it a night and leisurely returned to my hotel. All in all, it was pretty close to being about as perfect an evening as one could hope for.
Friends, this is a classic Andalusian seafood dish if ever there was one, traditionally served with lots of crusty bread to soak up the piquant broth; combined with the flavors of a richly spiced Moroccan tagine coming together in a pasta salad, savory and bright with olive, lemon, and cinnamon. With thanks to Saveur Magazine for helping me recall and re-create a most memorable meal.
Almejas à la Gaditana / Clams in Sherry Sauce
(serves 4 – 6)
INGREDIENTS
3 tbsp. olive oil
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 lb. (about 3 dozen) small clams, such as littlenecks, scrubbed clean
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup dry sherry
¼ cup finely chopped parsley
2 small red Thai chiles, stemmed and finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Country bread, for serving
preparation
Heat oil in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic, and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the clams, wine, sherry, parsley, and chiles; season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, and cook, covered, until the clams open, about 12 minutes; uncover the pan and remove and discard any clams that don’t open. Serve with bread on the side.
Moroccan Pasta Salad
(serves 4-6)
INGREDIENTS
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 cups Israeli-style couscous, cooked and cooled1 medium carrot, finely chopped½ cup green picholine olives, pitted and chopped½ cup preserved lemon, minced¼ cup olive oil½ tsp cinnamon½ tsp cumin½ tsp ground gingerSalt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
preparation
Soak the onion in lemon juice for 5 minutes to quick-pickle the onions. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients and toss together, season with salt and pepper, and serve at room temperature.
NOW, ABOUT THOSE WINES…
Marques de Gelida Brut Cava – any more “modestly” priced the cava would be free. Cava: How to say champagne in Spanish. Probably not an original tag line.
Nessa Albarino 2010 – has depth and amazing flavor. Pairs beautifully with seafood. Send a case to yourself!
Bodega Emilio Moro Tinto 2008 – maybe a bit pricey but this baby returns some incredible value. It’s a revolution in the making and your either wit’us or again’ us. Salud!
El Puntido Tempranillo 2007 – serious wine for serious drinkers. “Succulent”
La Gitana Manzanilla, Bodegas Hidalgo – great sherry as an aperitif or whenever you damn well please.