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Yesterday I went to le Salons du Pavillon Ledoyen located at 1, Avenue Dutuit – Carré des Champs Elysées. To get you generally oriented, the Avenue Dutuit is your first right after you’ve passed the Petit Palais and just before you reach the Place de la Concorde. You should be able to vector-in yourself with those fine map coordinates. You can probably tell that I either called in air strikes or was a tour guide for a living. In any event, this little “shindig” started at 1800hr and concluded with the last gulp at 2000hr. The dress code very much “tenue de cocktail” which meant that anyone arriving in les jeans, cut offs, flip flops, college t-shirts would likely start a diplomatic furror or every paparazzi in Paris would be in on the event figuring only only a star would be stupid enough to dress like that. I jest but only in part, of course. I usually make it a point to get there in dark blue chalk stripe three-button suit, white shirt spread collar, regimental tie (all BB specials) and black tie lace shoes shined mirror like so I can see my face. Honest.
Parking was proposed (everything in France, it seems, is proposed- even Parking) at 17 avenue Matignon Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées. The thought of driving around Paris at 6 in the evening was not my cup of expresso so I caught the metro. The Pavillion (the destination) was built in 1791 by Pierre-Michel Doyen, child of a famous catering family and the building was later redesigned in 1842 by the architect Hittorff; so now, with its graceful neo-classical facade, it sits nestled in among the chestnut trees, a manicured lawn and water fountains. A little like my place. These days, the Pavillion’s purpose is to function very much like that of an Elks, Moose or Fire Hall except that you can’t find a Bud, it has a world class restaurant and is a bit more refined, elegant and luxurious. And French.
You must be asking yourselves why in heavens name was I even invited. Well, you will surely recall last month I was invited to a soirée of the Bonne Volonté Literary Society (BVLS) at the Hôtel Le Bristol . There must be some sort of heightened sense of security in the book world because the Society moves its literary “get togethers” to a different location each month. Freequently changing your routine is probably good tradecraft. But I will inquire.
The Bonne Volonté Literary Society is a Franco-American organization which has been in Paris since the 1920’s and prides itself, and always has, on its distinguished membership – hence the reason, once again, I was only an invited guest. But I go to these events for a couple of reasons, they always have some good wines and quite often you rub shoulders with a few interesting people who can actually get beyond a slurred cocktail hello, or who have that “I’m trying really hard to make you think I give a damn and really do care” look. Previously, I noted that for some reason this group seemed to attract the Quai d’Orsay crowd who liked to mingle just as much as the Avenue Gabrielle crowd from our U.S. Embassy. Come to think about they probaby are all outfitted with secret camera ties, explosive cigarettes at the ready, and a length of rope wrapped around hidden under their cummerbund. I liked our crowd generally speaking. Sometimes they went a little too far out of the way to make sure nobody confused them as being either French or English. I found they were always quick to come at you with the latest ball scores but mention a breezy little things like nuclear nonproliferation talks, or a little massacre here or a Congressional inquiry, special investigation and these boys and girls acted like they didn’t want to play.
Well you know who else showed -up that evening not that counting on her being there mind you, but in waltzed my dear friend Tessa who is someone I met at a function given by my friends Raymond and Sylvie. We hit it off and shared an affinity for good food, good wines, superb champagne and good times. She is a cultural attache of sorts – though I wonder. Anyway, she came in with her armed escort – not really armed – but he had that unmistakeable G-man look; you just can’t fake that it’s something thats learned I believe. He(I always forget his name Butch, Biff something like that), is apparently our embassy’s Legal Attaché (LEGAT) – probably a good person to know and not one to have on your bad side. Challenging cocktail situation. I was caught off guard as Tessa came up to alone, greeted me warmly and as usual was wearing that wonderful French perfume. It’s heady, it makes you dizzy and say and do stupid things (that’s where I usually come in). When I pulled myself together and refocused on her face, she let me know she would be open to a lunchon invitation regarding one of our mutual friends. We settled on a date next week.
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The ever-distinguished Master of Ceremonies started with his welcome notes commenting on what an exciting group of authors were assembled. Such intellectual banter usually gets me pointed in the direction of bar. Finally, after a few readings, cheek kissing for the French, hand shake pumping for the American crowd we got down to unveiling the evenings “Dégustation”at Ledoyen.
Champagne G. H. Mumm, Cordon Rouge – Mumm’s the word on this one lovely champagne. The Cordon Rouge had an excellent nose, a mix of lemon, grapefruit and peaches. The house says it best: “The flavour is complex fresh fruit and caramel flavours are the mark of a great wine. A touch of acidity and remarkable length in the mouth make a consistently delightful finish.” – Mumm
Whisky Ballantine’s, 12 et 17 ans d’âge – The 12 years old was just alright and I must admit I was a wee bit disappointed on this Scottish gem. And all the more so when I tried one with a few more years to it. Perhaps it might be nice in the summer with a couple of ice cubes. The 17 year old Ballantine had a really nice musty, earthy peat notes that I am so fond of. Felt as if you were walking through a bog. I added a splash of water and the taste changed to one with spicier notes. With this tasting, every element pulls together in harmony.
Porto Sandeman 20 Years Old Tawny Port – with over 200 years of experience built into Sandeman Port it was guaranteed to be a real tasting pleasure. I was not left dissapointed. This Port had a wonderful nutty character, dried apricot flavour and amazing complexity. I could imagine this would pair well with a Roquefort cheese or for dessert, anything with caramel flavours; apple pie, pecan pie or classic crème brûlée.
Domaine Bourgeois, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé The Bourgeois family have been making Sancerre wine for 10 generations. The estate is located in the famous village of Chavignol renowned for its wines but maybe even more known for its goat’s cheese – Crottin de Chavignol. The Sancerre Grande Réserve 2006 is always one of my favorites and this one was no different with aromas of pears, and green apples to it. The Pouilly-Fumé 2002 had an almost pale golden-green hue to it. Great nose with fruit, smokiness and some minerality to it. Fresh taste with lively acidity. Outstanding.
Domaine Courbis, Saint Joseph – we had one delightful tasting from the Rhone Valley from the Domaine Courbis whose family estate dates back to the 16th century. The St-Joseph Rouge is 100% Syrah and comes from various vineyard parcels across the Courbis domaine. This one had wonderful sweet, smoky black raspberry fruit blended together with earthy hints. A case of this wine is possible.