I was going to present a dish that would have been considered probably a wee heavy on the stomach especially given the hot, humid soggy days that we have been having and I’m talking days where it’s 101 degrees in the bloody shade. So this is a pleasant summer mix and as I have noted below, if you are already freaking out because you ate all the lamb the night before then you must learn to improvise especially if you are in culinary special ops school where its all about improvising without calling in helicopters for tactical kitchen support. The analogy, although strained, is appropriate and it’s there. For wines I would stay away from anything too heavy unless you find you have a light red or even one of those less than pleasant oak laced Chardonnays then go for it. For moi, I’m suggesting you think about a chilled Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or a nice Rose de Provence. I don’t think you can get any better than that. You can sit on your porch and enjoy your meal with the Med sparkling at your back door and your loveable dog at you feet and whoever else you invite to share your meal. Even better, why not pack up everything and go on a pique-nique.
Ingredients:
La salade
1 cup thinly sliced red onion
16 baby potatoes
Kosher salt
2 lb. fava beans in the pod or 1/2 lb. haricots verts
16 cherry tomatoes cut in half
1/4 cup Niçoise olives (about 20)
Freshly ground black pepper
3/4 lb. leftover roasted leg of lamb, thinly sliced
8 large caper berries
Le dressing
1 large egg yolk
6 oil-packed anchovies, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions:
Le Dressing
Put the egg yolk, anchovies, garlic, and mustard in a food processor. With the motor running, gradually add the olive oil and process until the mixture starts to thicken and emulsify (it should have the consistency of heavy cream), about 2 minutes.
With the motor still running, add the lemon juice and 1 tsp. hot water. Continue to process until the mixture reaches a soft mayonnaise consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
OK the thing with the motor is all very nice but if you happen to be someone that has no motor -at least none in the house what do you do? Years ago there were no clever little plastic container things with electrical plugs so you used something called “hands” or what the French call “le elbow grease.” It’s do-able, admittedly a bit tiring but that’s why you have a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc within easy reach.
La Salade
Put the onion in a medium bowl, cover with cold water, and soak for 20 minutes. Drain and pat dry.
Put the potatoes in a large pot of well salted water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until the potatoes are tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Drain and when cool enough to handle, cut them in half.
If you happen to not have a left over roasted leg of lamb hanging around in your freezer which can happen, but you do have leftover pork or beef roast or even a fowl gone a fowl or not then go ahead use what you have. Improvise. The culinary commissar accompanied by his trusted block warden (holding your dossier) are not likely to appear at your front door any time soon, at least not yet!
Mix in the rest of the ingredients any way you like (I promise not to tell)
Les Vins de Selection
A couple of weeks ago, I had the great pleasure of meeting an outstanding winemaker, Kyle Thompson of St. Clair Wines from Malborough and Wairau, New Zealand. After much pressure to tase, I finally succumbed and was I ever glad that I gave in as these were some of the best Sauvignon Blanc wines that I have tasted. Now I happen to like my SB with a little edge to what many call that grassy flavor and a definite level of tartness, that grapefruit splash. It’s to die for when it’s 90 degrees in the shade and not even August.
2008 Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Riesling This light-bodied Riesling shows distinct characters of citrus, limes and grapefruit on the palate. Delicious.
2010 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 18 Sauvignon Blanc This Sauvignon Blanc is intensely concentrated with fresh passionfruit and blackcurrant and a salty minerality that leads to a lingering finish. My personal favorite and with our latest heat wave it was a winner.
2009 Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Full and rich with firm, well-balanced acidity, this wine has powerful passion fruit, blackcurrant and grapefruit. A mineral component adds complexity and depth to a long lingering finish.
And just to make sure that I keep it on the up and up, fair play and all that rot, here’s one from the Western Cape I dare not forget to mention or else the calvalry will surely track me down somewhere on the velde.
2009 Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc This racy bottling single-handedly put South Africa on the map as a source of world class Sauvignon Blanc.