One of the traits I believe that I have inherited from my father, along with my brothers as well, is a love of books. It never was that way as a child, I can assure you though there plenty of time that I was sent to my room and ordered to read. We would spend hours in the company of my father as he combed through the various book stalls (sometimes the venue was changed and it was antique stores/flea markets) and invariably he would dig out something obscure, brush it off and examine it closely. Whatever it was, and his taste ran pretty wide and deep, he could not have been happier with his detective work. He drew as much pleasure finding a miniature book (but beautifully bound, please) on 16th century French poetry as he would a silver snuff box from Imperial Russia. As I grew older, as with many things, I came to appreciate that side of my father’s character. He had, as they say, a nose for tracking down “first editions” like no one else I know. So by the end of the afternoon, as the bouquinistes were locking down, we would finaly head home. I was exhausted from standing around and trying to look bored while my father was elated carrying home half a dozen or more well worn books usually a first edition, some would have interesting often bizarre looking etchings by an artist that my father had known about or they were drawn on paper in a manner that was typical of the period and were original and in good condition. The case had been made. After the war in the late ’40’s, my father would stroll along the quaies of the Seine where he once purchased a small comical etching by an artist who was, at that time, rapidly gaining worldwide aclaim; he sold it at auction years later when our family faced an emergency.
Since the early 17th century the quayside of the River Seine has been an outdoor bookstore. Known as bouquiniste these green stalls, bolted to the sidewalls overlooking the river, sell mostly secondhand books. The term “bouquinistes” was made official by the French Academy in 1789. They are uniquely Parisian and a quaint city landmark, of sorts. Many years ago, at the end of the day, the dealers had to pack up everything and head back home. All those boxes on the round trip must have made for less than a welcome home sight. Initially the booksellers – les bouquinistes– wheeled their books around in barrows-yes that’s right. In 1606, it was decided that the profession needed some regulation so they could be taxed for their efforts; the French authorities allowed them to ply their trade for a few hours every day in a certain spot on Ile de la Cité. Not until the early 19th century were they recognized as a real profession. In 1891, permission was granted to set up permanent stalls. More regulations, of course, were enacted in 1952 and eventually the boxes were painted an official shade of green and a standard size was set. For the exact dimensions, please see Article 9 of the Municipal Code of Paris, 1 October 1993 signed into law by Jacques Chirac, then Mayor of Paris. At last count, there were 240 registered Parisian bouquinistes using the green colored boxes, and conservatively five thousand used books not including a large collection of collectable stamps and post cards.
Regardless of whether you are nosing around the bouquinistes along the waterfront or working your way through some of many bookstores in Paris. The fact remains it can be a fun relaxing activity to do -if you like books. Once you put on your investigators hat you just never know what you might find. Dust off a book and it might be one of Camus or Sartre’s early works maybe even a first edition. You might run across a charming photograph or print of old Paris. Worthy of framing to be sure. I have an old map of France that I have framed and whenever I look at it I think of the bouquinistes in Paris. Paris is a city of readers who collect and appreciate books. The bouquinistes have been plying their trade in Paris for over 400 years. They know the market has been around.
Well, all of this has built up my appetite and if I remember correctly there is a great restaurant appropriately named Les Bouquinistes and owned by the renowned Michelin star chef Guy Savoy.
Well, all of this has built up my appetite and if I remember correctly there is a great restaurant appropriately named Les Bouquinistes and owned by the renowned Michelin star chef Guy Savoy.