Paris in the Fall. I have tried to hold off the season’s arrival a bit longer by introducing this wonderful Mediterranean-style dish that brings together a fine cut of pork with blue cheese, an olive tapenade, white wine, shallots, thyme and Dijon mustard. Impossible to resist! You almost feel like scrambling to find a table somewhere, anywhere. Despite feeling the late summer sun on my shoulders, I also recognize the inevitable tug of Fall cooking and solid bistro dishes washed down with a pichet of Beaujolais or a Chinon. Difficult times ahead indeed but somebody has to do this and it might as well be yours truly.
A word of caution, don’t be taken aback by the recipe which may seem like a thesis on cooking because I assure it’s not. After a couple of glasses of red you will be humming right through this recipe and doing a little two step because you will find that it’s easier to do than perhaps opening one of those carefully sealed (for your protection) package from your local food store. I don’t know about anyone else bu I’ve had moments where a buzz-saw was the only thing that seemed to work and yes the contents were shredded but I got the damn thing open!
Filet de Porc Farci à la Tapenade et Fromage Bleu / Pan Roasted Pork Tenderloin with a Blue Cheese and Olive Stuffing
Ingredients
1-1/2 pounds whole pork tenderloins
Kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste
1/2 cup prepared olive tapenade
1/4 cup crumbled bleu cheese (I would suggest a good bleu cheese, big difference)
1 tablespoon and 1-1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1-1/2 shallots, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 tablespoon minced parsley
Directions
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C).
Make a lengthwise cut in each pork tenderloin about 3/4 of the way through. Open each tenderloin, creating a rectangular shape, and place each between two sheets of plastic wrap. Pound each tenderloin into a thin rectangle, about 1/2 to 1/2-inch thick. Remove the plastic wrap, and season each tenderloin to taste with salt and pepper on both sides.
Spread tapenade on 2/3 of each tenderloin sheet, leaving about 1/2 inch of space on the edges. Sprinkle blue cheese and thyme over the tapenade. Starting from the side with the stuffing, roll the meat firmly towards the side without stuffing, being careful not to roll so tightly that you squeeze the stuffing out. Use toothpicks or butcher’s twine to secure each roll.
Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large, ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until it begins to smoke. Lightly dredge each tenderloin roll in flour, and shake off excess. Sear the tenderloins in hot oil until golden brown on all sides, about 6 minutes.
Roast in preheated oven to an internal temperature of 160 degrees F (70 degrees C), 20 to 22 minutes. Remove the pork from the skillet, and set aside to rest in a warm place.
Return skillet to stove over medium-high heat. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil, then stir in shallots and cook until translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in white wine, and boil until reduced by half, scraping the caramelized bits off of the bottom of the pan. Whisk in the Dijon mustard, honey, and lemon juice until smooth. Remove pan from the heat, and rapidly whisk in butter cubes until dissolved. Stir in minced parsley, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
To serve, remove toothpicks or twine from the pork, and slice into 1/2-inch medallions. Serve the pork slices ladled with sauce. Serve with a plateful of frites-of course or may I suggest mashed potatoes with a mushroom sauce. If you feel the need to have a vegetable with it then be my guest just don’t tell me about it. Reminder: Make sure you lock your doors. Why share this incredible dish with anyone else?
Now about those wines…
2010 Sivas-Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County, California. How could I say no to Sauvignon Blanc. And before you start preaching fire and brimstone may I remind the assembled distinguished ladies/gentlemen that we are dealing with pork – the great wine equalizer. Some would call it shallow because it goes with just about anything or anyone (?). This little wine is bright and full of character, the nose is pure Sauvignon Blanc. On the palate, this wine has the citrus flavors from Sonoma Valley.
2008 Domaine Gramenon, Côtes-du-Rhône Village Vinsobres. Some of you are thinking well that was predictable he is back en ville, its Fall and that all spells CDR. This is a wonderful wine paired with an interesting and flavorful dish. You are not going to go wrong.
2009 Sivas-Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, California. This is a worthy selection at any dinner table. This “Cab” is very fruit driven, with a nice combination of blackberry, red currant, dark chocolate and cocoa. On the palate, dark chocolate-covered cherry flavors with hints of mocha, and the dark fruit profile carries all the way through the lively mid-palate.
2008 Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino,Tuscany, Italy. This wine is made from Sangiovese grapes handpicked from estate vines that are at least 15 years old. This wine has an intense bouquet of wild berry fruit. The palate is velvety and rich, with great structure and smooth, rounded tannins. A “baby Brunello”! What’s NOT to like?
And my sleeper for today is…
2009 Cantina Santadi Grotta Rossa, Sardinia, Italy. This a wonderful Carignano is charming, forward, and enticing while simultaneously full and elegant (well how very Italian is that?). The nose is intense and fruity, with a subtle hint of licorice on the finish. On the palate, it is silky and round, with good body, earthy, peppery notes, and a long finish. One sip of this wine and you’ll think your still on vacation!