By now some of you may have gathered that next great food found in Parisian bistros, I also have more than a passing interest in recipes from the Basque region. The cooking is trans-national as the Basques were already firmly entrenched long before some cranky politicians in powdered wigs and three cornered hat decided to draw arbitrary lines on the geopolitical map. Now some Basques have French passports others Spanish ones. But what really got me going is that I learned that The Culinary Institute of America just inked a deal with the Basque Culinary Center to promote cultural exchange and shared research among students and professors about the history and benefits of Mediterranean gastronomy, particularly in regard to how it can benefit U.S. diets. Lord knows we could use some help and I throw myself into the mix as well. That was a real eye-opener so I needed a nice glass of red du pays to absorb all this information. As I sat down at my desk, by candlelight, I thought it would be most fitting and quite proper to suggest two interesting regional recipes – a lamb stew because how can you go wrong with that – except if your the lamb, I understand the finer point of that argument. Secondly, it’s getting close to Halloween and if you can hang on to your pumpkin in its entirety until after the celebration, then you have the makings of a great side dish (or a desert.) Think of this as my sustainable gift to you. I don’t usually do such nice things but we are talking food. So let us put on our berets and start cooking!
Basque-Style Lamb Stew
Ingredients4 lb of lamb shoulder cut into pieces.
oil or lard
3 onions diced
4 cloves garlic crushed
3 carrots cut into pieces
1/2 mild red pepper (dried and chopped)
1 glass red wine
1 1/2 cup vegetable or chicken broth
salt (taste)
6 potatoes medium size and cut into pieces
fresh parsley, chopped (cilantro is traditional)
I tend to add Spanish paprika to my Basque dishes because it bring a delicious smoky flavor to the dish. It’s optional.
Directions
Brown lamb in oil or lard with onion, garlic, carrot, and pepper.
When vegetables are soft and meat is getting tinges of brown add salt to taste, parsley, wine and broth to cover.
Cook for an hour or until meat is getting tender.
Add potatoes which have been previously browned in oil.
Cook until done.
Tian (Tapas Style Pumpkin)
An unusually exquisite seasonal side dish that serves double-duty as a conversation piece. This crispy treat makes a unique addition to your average hors- d’oeuvre or even a side dishes.
Ingredients
3 lb. cooking pumpkin (Fresh whole) – (I found that a surprising ingredient)
1 White Onion
Brown Sugar
Fresh ground black pepper
Salt (to taste)
Olive Oil
Directions
Cut pumpkin into 3″x 3″ squares (leaving peel on).
Arrange in large baking dishes (covered).
Bake 300 degree oven for 45 minutes or till fork inserts easily.
Arrange slices on greased cookie sheet, side by side.
Slice onions into paper thin rings, placing one layer of concentric ring slices on top of each pumpkin.
Top each with 1 tbsp. brown sugar, pepper, salt, and 1 tsp. olive oil.
Place in broiler, browning tops till onion gets light-medium brown.
Try substituting the onion with a splash of pumpkin liquor or a sweet brandy. Knock ’em dead for Halloween!!!
About those wines…
Txacolí, pronounced Cha-ko-LEE, comes from the Spanish Basque Country where this wine reigns as the local specialty. And withj good reason, its a tasty light, mainly white wine which often has a touch of natural carbonation to it. If you were in Pamplona running with the bulls and unhurt, this wine is refreshing and you can toast your insanity.
Alavan Rioja, young Spanish reds, full of fruity aromas, light and slightly pungent on the palate, very much in line with the ‘Beaujolais Nouveau‘ from the other side of the Pyrennees.
Château Montus, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec 2003 – Floral and pineapple tones and a real exotic ripeness. The fruit has real opulence and sweetness on the mid-palate, and delicious ripe pear acidity that is still pithy and grapefruity.
Domaine Berthoumieu, Madiran Cuvée Charles de Batz 2006 – Tannat with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this comes from 50-year-old vines and spends 12 months in new barriques. Rich, dark, black plum and olive, very sinewy and tight, with a blue/black richness and edge of woodsmoke, lovely concentration. The palate is dry and savoury, with a tight, meaty intensity and lovely tannin and acid balance that keeps it fresh.
And – even though it is not strictly speaking “du pays” this is a great wine (affordable, I mean)
2010 Chateau Tour des Gendres Classique Rouge, Bergerac, France – A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Malbec. The nose is powerful, with notes of ripe plum, cherries and spices. On the palate, the wine is supple with a complex structure. It finishes with fruity notes and a fine balance. If you can track down this little gem, it pairs beautifully with a dish such as the Basque Lamb Stew. Delicious!