View of Fort Lalatte from the Cap Frehel
It’s inevitable really when you think about it, that I should return, if not in body then certainly in mind and spirit, to Brittany (Breizh) a region steeped in history and mystery on France’s northwestern most region extending out, almost defiantly towards the Atlantic Ocean. It’s been more than just a while since I stood out along a familiar stretch of pink-granite coast overlooking a sea of emerald blue. And the air! I assure you that nothing quite surpasses its unbelievable freshness; it is powerful and potent and almost medicinal some would argue. The French like to think of going to Brittany as something of a cure. They would argue that one gets “re-oxygenated” and sufficiently reinvigorated to return to Paris and continue the battle. I have myself to blame for not returning to Brittany but running around the world can be a bit draining after a while. But now I too feel the need to “re-oxygenate” myself and just between you and me, there is a secret plan being hatched by yours truly to catch a TGV train from Paris heading in the general direction of Rennes. From there the adventure begins.
Now about this dish. I would think that serving monkfish Brittany-style along with an Apple and Calvados Sorbet either as desert or an “amuse bouche” should put you just squarely in the heart of Brittany that land of mystery, Merlin, the Forest Of Broceliande, and the Knights Templar.
Martine’s ‘Lotte à l’Armoricaine’
Serves 4
Ingredients
•1.2 kg fresh Monkfish fillets (or substitute for other firm white fish)
• 50 grams salted butter (obviously Martine’s is butter from Bretagne with salt de Guérande) but if you don’t live in France you will have to make do with good quality salted butter
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1 standard tin of peeled tomato puree
• 1 tbsp tomato puree (concentrate)
• 1 white onion
• 2 shallots
• Dried herbs de Provence (parsley, thyme, bay leaves)
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 tablespoons of plain white flour
• Half a bottle dry white wine
• 250 ml fish stock
• 50 ml cognac (feel free to add a little more)
• 1 handful fresh coriander
• Small pinch piment d’espelette (a special Basque-country, dried spice).
The closest substitute is cayenne pepper which will work in a “pinch”
• 3-4 threads saffron
• Sea salt and pepper to taste
• Juice of half a lemon
Directions
The monkfish is a tricky fish to prepare by yourself so it’s much easier to have the monkfish prepared and cut into medallions by your fishmonger.
Coat the fish fillets lightly in flour. In a heavy-based or good quality cast-iron pan, melt the butter and add the olive oil so that the butter does not burn.
Place the monkfish fillets in the pan then add the cognac. Light the cognac with a flame and flambé. Take the pan off the heat, place the fish aside in a separate dish and put it aside to rest.
Finely dice the garlic, onion and shallots. Gently cook the garlic and onions in the flambéed saucepan then the tomatoes, fish stock, white wine, piment d’espelette and herbs de
Provence. Allow to simmer gently until the sauce has reduced and concentrated in flavour, for at least 20 minutes.
Finally, add the pieces of fish to the sauce in the pan and cook for only a further 5 or so minutes. Just before serving, add fresh coriander and saffron, salt and pepper to taste.
Serve with rice. Now close your eyes, pour a glass of wine and imagine yourself on the coast of Brittany…or looking for Merlin.
Apple and Calvados Sorbet
Bracing Calvados and tart hints of lemon make a fantastic sorbet recipe to serve at dinner parties and special occasions. Serve it as a light dessert or as an unexpected palate cleanser between courses.
- 1 1/3 cup peeled, chopped tart apple (1 large)
- 3 cups water
- ½ cup granulated sugar
- ¼ cup lemon juice
- ¼ teaspoon lemon zest
- ¼ cup Calvados, or apple brandy
Culinary Travels in France 