It looks, smells and feels like summer and that’s good enough for me to go out on broad reach and declare that it must be summer. That means, dear readers, I must start to think about dishes that are more appropriate for summer and not as heavy as are the ones you might be willing to tackle off a bistro menu on some cold, wet winter’s eve. We are going to add a little sunshine and I am starting with a great dish that I consider to be part of that great quintessential French menu in the sky, the blessed one with all those wonderful traditional dishes. The colin froid à la mayonnaise is an example of that as it is a well known delightful dish of a fish. It answers to almost any name, from colin by the French, cooked pollock according to the Brits, and hake according to the rest of the free world. So whatever you do, don’t get hung up on symantics and just rest assured this dish is delicious.
Food is so evocative so I have to take a moment to let you know that this particular dish makes me recall those splendid vacations at the family summer home in Brittany so many years ago. At lunchtime, without fail our outstanding cook aka., housekeeper and surrogate mother at times would emerge from the kitchen with one dish more outstanding than the other. This time she triumphantly placed on the diner table a large brightly decorated Breton dish that held a large, very sleepy, cold colin surrounded with potatoes, hardboiled eggs, string beans, olives, and sliced tomatoes. Fresh delicious homemade mayonnaise completed the dish. Sliced baguette was present, of course, as were a selection of chilled white wines, perhaps something from the Val de Loire, maybe a Chablis from Burgundy or surely a crisp Alsace Riesling. It was a wonderful time as the family gathered around the table on a nice summer day in the country. The front door would be open, the dog on the steps outside dozing quietly; we were all enjoying the peacefulness of the noon hour in rural France. From a neighboring field, a cow announced its presence and momentarily broke the silence, an off-shore breeze gently rustled the leaves on the old fig tree in the courtyard. It was a bit of heaven so many years ago but I think back to those days and see it all so very clearly.
Colin Froid Mayonnaise – Chilled Hake with Mayonnaise
Ingredients
2.5 -3 lbs of colin (4 servings)
8 white potatoes (or red new)
1 large tomato1 head of lettuce
5 eggs
Olive oil
Black olives
Sea salt and cracked pepper
“court-bouillon”
Preparation
First of all, no need to freak over “court-bouillon” it’s just French for salted cow’s head. Not really. It’s nothing more than a homemade aromatic bouillon that one cooks the fish in. Real simple, it consists of salted water (from the waters around Brittany of course) and a few other trinkets you have in your kitchen. Some recipes call for half water half milk. You choose. So, be brave and add the following:
- 1 gallon cold water
- 1 handful Kosher salt
- 1 cup white wine
- 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
- 1 medium rib celery, chopped
- 1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 sprig fresh thyme
- 8 fresh parsley stems
- 1 tsp black peppercorns, crushed
- 1 lemon, thinly sliced
Bring to a boil then simmer for 30 minutes and use immediately. This is probably a good time to check out the white wine you just added. I know I would.
(Now back to cooking our Colin aka Hake.)
Put your fish into the warm “court-bouillon”
Re-heat it making sure you don’t bring it to a boil
Cook the fish for twenty minutes without cover
When ready, take the fish out put it on plate and let it cool down nicely
While the fish is cooling its heels, cook your potatoes and boil the eggs
Before the fish ever sees the dining room table prepare your mayonnaise (fool proof recipe provided for your dining pleasure- no really I mean it.)
Serving Suggestion: With this dish especially, the manner in which it is presented is everything! Use a nice large platter (feel free to surgically debone the fish in the kitchen rather than at table side) surround the fish with sliced boiled potatoes, boiled eggs and tomatoes cut in quarters. Sprinkle the black olives all around. Decorate with plenty of mayonnaise and serve table side along with a tossed salad with oil and vinegar dressing and of course, a nice crunchy baguette.
Alternative Serving Suggestion: Serve with a Macédoine de légumes
In the days of the Macedonians, instead of serving just a plain salad, they livened things up by adding cooked peeled carrots, diced potatoes, cooked peas and lightly cooked onions which they usually served on a shield. These days, I find it’s best to just combine all the ingredients into a bowl, add in the diced tomatoes and mix in your homemade mayonnaise. Then take large salad leaves placing them on individual dinner plates, add a piece of fish and decorate the top with your vegetable Macédoine then add some black olives. Different look, always a classic and with the same great taste.
Mayonnaise Maison or Julia’s Mayonnaise in the Food Processor
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 whole egg
- 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
- 1 tsp Dijon prepared mustard
- 1/2 tsp salt
- Big pinch of fresh ground pepper
- 2 cups of excellent extra virgin olive oil ** High quality oil is best **
Put the egg yolks, egg, lemon juice, mustard, salt and pepper in the food processor and process for 10 seconds until creamy. With the food processor running continuously, slowly adding your oil – almost droplets at a time. You want to make sure it’s added slowly to assist in the emulsion process. The mayonnaise should come out fairly thick. Once you’ve added 1 1/2 cups of the oil, stop the machine and check the mayonnaise for taste and consistency. Adjust the seasoning and, if the mayonnaise is very thick, process in drops of lemon juice to thin. If it’s still too thin, continue to slowly add in your oil. Transfer the finished mayonnaise into a bowl and if not using immediately, cover and store in the fridge.
Now about those wines
Before I get to pretty typical wines to have with this dish, I wanted to bring to your attention some simply outstanding Alsatian wines. I will admit, in the past Alsatian wines were sweet and generally left me wanting something anything else. But with these wines from the Domaine Trimbach, I was left pants down, so to speak, or just plain speechless. All three would beautifully complement a colin froid à la mayonnaise.
I started with a simple little 2009 Domaine Trimbach Pinot Blanc Classic. Fresh lemons, orange and fennel on the nose and notes of apple and orange. Elegance and finesse. A very reasonable Pinot and highly drinkable.
Let me say a few words about the 2006 Domaine Trimbach Riesling Frederic Emile Grand Cru. Named after the original owner and founder of the Domaine. An incredible nose of apricot, lime, and pungent floral notes and from there it’s an extravaganza of juicy citrus and pit fruit. Citricity, mineral intensity and an overall “wow” factor.
Last one I want to talk about is the 2005 Domaine Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs Ribeaupierr – Grand Cru. Characterized by honey, rose petals, peony, sweet pea and cinnamon in the nose. Wonderful finish with florality and subtle spices.
My other usual suspects include:
2009 Maison Jacques Bavard, Bourgogne Aligoté, Burgundy
2009 Saget Muscaded Sevre-et-Maine Sur Lie Les Clissages d’Or, Loire Valley
2011 Chateau Beaulieu Coteaux D’Aix-En-Provence Rose, Provence