Just when you thought it was safe to approach the flame, once again I am presenting a cognac laced dish that will knock your tennis socks off along with your remaining eyebrows from the last meal I suggested. We live and learn but somethings still hold true, come Hell or high water and that is: Cognac, shallots and creme fresh comprise the culinary trinity. How could anyone question that especially after licking their fingers and wiping up the sauce left on their plates with a crust of French bread. I rest my case your Honor. Under today’s wine section, I wanted to impart some tasting notes from a recent tasting at my favorite local “Wine Cellars of Annapolis” where great people and excellent wines come together.
Escalopes de Poulet Flambées au Cognac
Ingredients:
(serves 6)
Chicken escalopes (see note below)
1 oz of butter
2 or 3 shallots
1 cup of liqueur de cognac (alternatively, brandy or Spanish Brandy both of which are sweeter or a Pommeau de Normandie which is an apple brandy)
1/2 cup of dry white wine (garden variety type)
Tarragon
Salt and pepper
3/4 cup of crème fraiche
1 tsp of corn starch
2 egg yolks
* Note: Chicken escalopes are usually cut from the main part of the breast. The tenderloin is a small piece of breast attached to the underside of the main piece of breast (also known as chicken tenders, mini fillets or faux-filet) they are fairly small so you are likely to need two or three per adult portion. You can easily purchase packages of chicken tender at your local supermarket.
Directions:
Brown the chicken in the butter
Peel and chop shallots
Pour cognac over the escalopes and torch them, so to speak, while paying attention to your hair and eyebrows. Remember, this is not a science experiment and the “science guy”in his lab coat is not around.
Remove the escalopes and set aside
In pan, place the chopped shallots, mix gently and pour the wine and bring to a boil. Leaving a small glass for yourself.
Return the escalopes to the pan, adding sea salt, cracked pepper and tarragon. Cover on low heat for 20 minutes.
While the magic is being made, in another pan mix the creme fraiche, the corn starch, egg yolks, salt, pepper and tarragon.
After 20 minutes, set the escalopes aside, bring the sauce to a boil and skim off any grease.
Add in the creme fresh mixture with a whisk and remove it before the mixture comes to a boil.
Pour the mixture over the chicken escalopes now waiting patiently in your grandmother’s ornate serving dish. Wouldn’t she be proud?
Serve with rice and a tossed salad. If under pressure, or surrounded, include a vegetable.
Now about those wines…
Some things in life are more complicated than others but I don’t want you go for Pabst Blue Ribbon just yet because pairing this dish looks complicated. You have a couple of options available but remember ultimately you, as the chef and host/hostess, Queen Bee whatever hold the cards so your family and/or guests will just have to comply with your selection. If you used an ordinary (read: el cheapo, one dollar) white wine to cook with, you may want to think about upgrading with a wine where Mickey Mouse’s picture is not as prominently displayed on the bottle. The choice is yours, my purpose is but merely to suggest, to recommend and counsel. Now, regarding that wine tasting I mentioned earlier, my hat goes off to Monsieur Michael E. Affatato, Managing Director of “Roche-Mère Wine Selections.” Michael is passionate about his wines just as any other Brooklyn, NY transplant would be. Both as a fine wine maker and exporter, I’m confident we will continue to see more fine selections. Merci Michael!
2010 Domaine Gardies Les Glaciaires – Cotes de Roussillon. This is going to be a crowd pleaser. A great blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu. The flavors are of apricot nectar and fig with hints of honeysuckle. Lovely long finish. Tell your assembled guests that’s it’s just a classic wine.
2010 Patrick Baudouin Chenin Blanc – Anjou, Loire Valley. Aromas of peaches, nectarines, honey with a hint of apple. You will not be disapointed.
2009 Domaine Chamfort Cotes du Rhone Villages, Rasteau – Rhone Valley. Holy Toledo Batman! It left me desperately looking around for an IV because I needed more! Aromas of intense black fruits with notes of red meat, leather and black pepper. On the palate it was black raspberry and black cherry with notes of Chinese tea, cassis and white pepper. I feel lightheaded just putting this down on paper. Do yourself a favor, scrounge around the countryside, burn and pillage if you have to, but find this wine!
2009 Clos du Roy, Fronsac – Bordeaux. An outstanding Bordeaux with notes of dark cherry and cocoa and on the palate, a velvety texture with layers of dark cherry and mocha. Extremely satisfying and was forced to return for another tasting for proper quality control.
2009 Domaine Gardies Les Falaises Tautavel – Cotes du Roussillon-Village. For your general information, Wine Spectator gave this 94 points. Not too shabby in other words. To quote “This ripe, rich and powerful red has a deep well of dark fruit and spice flavors…The finish shows raspberry ganache and cocoa power, with hints of pepper. Drink now through 2020.” I intend to!
And my sleeper of the week: 2010 Altovinum Evodia, Atea Spain. 100% old vine garnacha. EVODIA is an exciting new project in the Denominacion de Origen Calatayud, hailed as one of Spain’s most progressive and promising wine growing regions. The wine maker is Jean Marc Lafage – a man Robert Parker called “irrepressible.” Jean Marc owns one of the Roussillon’s visionary wineries, Domaine Lafage.