I am propelling myself outdoors bright and early this morning – not because I have any real desire to commune with nature or take an extra long walk. No, today I am driven to taste a baguette that was recently deemed worthy enough to be served to the President of the Republic, Nicolas Sarkozy, at his residence at the Élysée Palace. This is not yo’ mama’s baguette this is an Award-winning baguettes from Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses in Paris.

The 17th “Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris was held on March 22, 2010. This is not an idle award, no this is an award which represents the very French in the French. It is the inner core. I suppose if one could reach into the core of the French soul one might very well pull out a fresh baguette. That particular bread has been on the table in every French home and French restaurant for the past 100 years or so. It is such a part of the fabric of French life that even prisoners get their baguettes – though I believe they are sliced lest they save them for a few days and in doing so effectively weaponising them. In the U.S. our incarcerated population cries the blues if they can’t get expanded cable TV service on a flat screen. In France, its baguettes. Now ask yourself, who’se got it right? Think that one over carefully while you break off a piece of crusty just-baked bread, a little butter and jam, and let me know.
According to published report in “Yeast Futures” last month the mayor of Paris organized the Grand Prix de la Baguette, where more than 160 baguettes and their crispy crusts were solemnly tasted by a jury. What was the criteria? Well taste, texture, look, smell, size and weight. I can no longer hold a baguette without performing that ritual. Admittedly I get a few stares and even once accused of fondling yeast in public.   Anyway, the best baguette prize was awarded to Djibril Bodian, a Senegal-born baker at Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses in Montmartre at 38 Rue des Abbesses.

Monsieur Bodian’s purse is nothing to sneeze at, earning 4,000 euros and the title of “Mr. President’s Baker” — every year, the winner of the annual contest earns the privilege of baking bread for the president of France; starting this month Mr. Bodian’s bread will be served at Nicolas Sarkozy’s residence, the Élysée Palace.

From my sources in the bread world, Mr. Bodian arrived in France when he was six. He finished secondary school at 18 and decided that he was going to be like Papa and be a Boulanger. After finishing high-school at the age of 18, he decided to follow in his father’s steps and become a baker. In these days of trade secrets and matters of intellectual property, Monsieur Bodian is quite open to sharing his secret sauce recipe or – bread in this case:  Et bien, une bonne baguette… “must look good, have a crispy crust and a good smell and taste.” Et voila mes amis, how wonderfully simple, how beautifully complex. By this time certain Asian trade organizations have already assigned a million bakers to work on this problem.  

I made my way up to Montmartre letting my nose be my guide for surely I would soon sniff the smell of fresh bread. There was No.38, I push open the doors and was almost overtaken by the aroma of freshly baked bread. It was almost intoxicating. I will have four baguettes mentally calculating one for the way home, one with breakfast, lunch and dinner. Then I saw him, the “uber baker” a slight, smiling young man, almost bashful yet very much enjoying his new found fame. I extended my hand, mes felicitations Monsieur le Boulanger; a handshake, a grin and a merci monsieur.